SYRAH

I have always loved this grape. It seems to have so much inherent character and such a range of expressions that it is hard for any winemaker not to be attracted to it. Syrah can give more flavor on it’s own than just about any other variety I can think of. That said, I am striving to make a beverage rather than a condiment. This is not always easy in California were it is often planted in overly warm sites or in too fertile soil. I have changed vineyard sources each year in my quest for the ‘perfect’ Syrah, and every year I am happier than the last. Currently I am working with Joe Golden and his viticulturist Jerry Yates. Jerry has been biodynamicly farming Syrah on a north-facing slope just outside of Hopland in southern Mendocino for over ten years with fantastic results. I may add other vineyards in the future, but I can’t imagine giving up this fruit.

I try very hard not to over extract my Syrah. It has so much color and tannin, that a fairly gentle approach is called for. I feel strongly about the advantages of open-top fermentors for Syrah. The added oxygen is crucial for both a healthy fermentation and to help stabilize the tannin and color of the wine. Although it is tempting to mainly punch-down the cap in an open-top, I tend to pump-over with the aid of a screen. This gives me the desired extraction without the bitterness that can easily come at the end of fermentation. One point that really gets me riled-up however is the use of new wood with Syrah. I don’t like it, I don’t use it and I doubt I ever will. No offence to those that do, I just find good Syrah to be so riveting on it’s own that anything more than a hint of oak detracts rather than enhances this most noble grape. A little Viognier however, can be a welcomed addition to the aromatic range and scope of Syrah and one that I will continue to keep as a blending option.

2002, Russian River Valley: This wine comes from two separate vineyards within the appellation. About 70% comes from the Timbervine Ranch, overlooking the river from a south-facing slope. This vineyard gives a lot of the olive and spice notes found in the wine. The balance came from a vineyard off of Piner Road to the southeast. This part of the blend was co-fermented with 10% Grenache. The Piner Road fruit brings a plum and leather quality with the Grenache adding some lovely strawberry and spice notes. The final blend is quite rich with a smoky grilled meat nose and lively black fruits on the palate. Very fine indeed. 220 cases bottled.

2003, Golden Vineyard, Mendocino (biodynamic)
Release date 11/04.
I hesitate to tell you just how good I think this wine is. But I will tell you that I was literally brought to tears while putting it in barrel. Sometimes the universe smiles on us. 140 cases to be bottled 9/04.