CARIGNANE

If Carignane is considered a variety outside of the mainstream, then it is only fitting that I was awakened to it’s charms by the inimitable Carl Sutton. Although his prediction that it would someday overtake Merlot in popularity has yet to come true, he was right about it’s attributes. When grown in it’s preferred setting (hot and dry), and its vigor controlled, it gives a wine so direct in it’s appeal as to border on dangerous. I almost hesitate to make the comparison, but if you have ever had ‘great’ Cru Beaujolais, or ‘authentic’ Lambrusco, then you’ll understand what I mean. It has no delusions of grandeur. It only wants to please, and the amount of pleasure it gives is its measure of success.

I find myself wanting to pick Carignane a little earlier than the current California dogma would dictate. It seams that the more delicate varietal characteristics tend to fade and become muddled as it moves from ripe to over-ripe. Once in the cellar I treat Carignane much like Pinot Noir. I leave the fruit to soak in open top fermentors until the first sign of life, then punch-down or pump-over the skins until the desired level of tannic extraction is achieved. At this time the wine is pressed off into seasoned and neutral French oak. Although I will not subject any of my wines to new oak, I feel that Carignane in particular shows best in four year or older wood. The wine may or may not be racked depending on the needs of each vintage. It is bottled without filtering or fining anywhere from seven to twelve months after the vintage.

2001 Lodi: Soft and deep, pure sweet strawberry nose with hints of sage. (Sold out)

2002 Alexander Valley: savorier on the nose. Cranberry and caramel flavors, firm texture without hard tannins. A bit like young Chianti Rufina at one year old. It should be at it’s best from spring ‘04 through sometime after the last bottle is drunk. (Current)

2003 Hopland, Mendocino: (barrel sample) Quite concentrated with great focus. Aromas are slowly developing at this point. Shows great promise. (Release: fall ‘04)